Acid For Acne - Glycolic Acid

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a natural substance (derived from sugar cane) that when used in skincare can offer rejuvenating benefits. It’s often used in chemical peels, but a lower percentage of glycolic acid can be used in daily skincare products such as cleansers.

Consistent use is said to increase collagen production, which in basic terms is what keeps the skin tissue firm and beautiful. It minimalizes pores and firms the skin as well as reduces the appearance of acne scars, making them flatter and less visible.

The Science

Glycolic acid belongs to a group of chemical compounds called AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). It’s the most commonly used AHA when it comes to cosmetics, simply because It has the smallest molecular size, so it can penetrate even the deepest layers of your skin and remove blockages within the pores. This is particularly suitable for those who suffer from cystic acne as this is caused by deep pore blockages. The acid basically breaks down the top layer of skin, dissolving any sebum that could cause spots or blemishes. This is a form of chemical exfoliation, rather than traditional manual exfoliation that can often cause irritation to the skin, making it appear red and sore (don’t do this!!). As glycolic acid allows the debris on your skin to break down in a non-abrasive way, it’s also suitable for those with sensitive skin types.

Risks

Considering AHAs are actually acids, there are a few risks to consider when using products that contain Glycolic acid or one of its’ counterparts:

·         Over-use can cause irritation and redness, as well as making your skin extreeeeemely dry.

·         Depending on the concentration of glycolic acid you’re using, risks may vary. Using a 20% or more concentration may just be too harsh on your skin and instead of solving your acne problem it will just open the door for more than it can fix.

·         Using glycolic acid increases photosensitivity so it’s best not to go in daylight whilst you’re slathered in it. It is widely recommended to use any glycolic acid treatment at night and wash it off in the morning, just to be extra safe.

My Experience

Earlier this year I was suffering potentially one of the worst acne breakouts I’ve ever had after finishing a round of antibiotics for my skin. My self-esteem was a literal zero and I was sick of wasting my time and money on products that claim to have a magic acne fix. So, I began researching into other ways to clean up my skin, but rather than a quick fix I wanted something long term. That’s when I came across acids like glycolic acid and salicylic acid. I purchased a few items that were really affordable and which had good reviews such as the Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Night Pads Extreme (the word extreme really sold me), Soap & Glory Dr. Spot Gel and a moisturiser containing salicylic acid.

The ‘Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Night Pads Extreme’ have a 5% concentration of glycolic acid and are also soaked in salicylic acid, lactic acid, and hyaluronic acid. The pads are comfortable to use on the skin and there is a lot of product soaked into each pad so you can apply it to any areas where you suffer with acne such as the chest, shoulder and back also. They cost around £15 and I got mine from boots for £8 on offer, so keep your eyes open.

At the time, I was in desperate need to clear my skin and I without a doubt went overboard with my skincare routine. I would begin with an exfoliating cleanser using a wash flannel followed by my moisturiser in the morning. At night, I would cleanse, tone, use my glycolic acid pads, moisturise, then use my Dr. Spot.  My skin was so irritated by the time I went to bed I would have to sit on my hands to stop myself from itching my face – it was literally unbearable. The fact that I did that to myself just shows why my skin was getting worse and worse rather than improving. My skin was also becoming extremely dry – a large contrast to my generally oily skin.

When I switched out my abrasive cleanser for a gentle soap, learned that daily chemical exfoliation is a nono and chilled out on the spot gel (as well as stopped picking), my skin gradually began to improve. Today I would rate my skin as 90% better than it was at that moment, and I owe this to my (regulated) use of acids in my skincare. I now use my pads once a week, and cleanse with a gentle foam wash. I also use the salicylic acid moisturiser twice daily, and the Dr. Spot when I deem necessary (not much recently). Its clear acids are still incorporated into my daily skincare routine and my acne is now barely as bad as it was – there’s no need to overdo it. Overall though, I recommend trying glycolic acid for your skin, acne or not.