Friday, 14 July 2017

Acne/Scarring Foundation + Concealer Coverage Routine


I don’t think having acne or scarring should stop anyone from wearing makeup. I have suffered from hormonal acne since I was about 12 and have been on medication to keep it under control ever since. This only keeps it controlled and hasn’t cured it, so on a day to day basis I can occasionally find myself trying to cover up stubborn acne or previous scarring. These are just a few ways I’ve learnt over the years to help me keep my acne covered!


This is an example of my skin badly broken out in January. I would avoid wearing makeup while it's red/sore and inflamed as in the photo, but by being delicate with your skin for a day or two you will be fine to cover this up, as long as there's no open wound.

Primer
I always prime my face as it creates a necessary barrier between the foundation and my skin. It also helps your makeup last longer and depending on what exact primer you use can blur, or minimise the appearance of pores. In general, those with acne have enlarged pores and usually oily skin. In this case a primer is exactly what you need, and going in straight with foundation is an absolute no-no as it will just break down quicker and cause your skin to worsen overall.

Colour Correct
I’ve spoken about colour correction before, because it’s such a major step for those with acne. Some days my face is extra broken out and just more red than usual, and without using a green concealer or any other method of colour correction on my face a red tint is visible through the foundation, and takes away from the ‘airbrushed’ effect I’m trying to achieve. I apply a small amount of CC concealer on any areas that are particularly red, then pat this in with my beauty blender. Don’t worry if there is a green tint on these areas afterwards, it’s not supposed to completely blend out as it neutralises the red tones. The green won’t show up through your foundation.

Conceal
Before I go in with my foundation, I give myself a bit of extra coverage by using my concealer over the areas that I covered in green and anywhere else on my skin that seems patchy from scarring (so would have been missed by the green). I then pat this in with my beauty blender once again, and it gives me an even pre-base to my foundation, to make sure it doesn’t look patchy and uneven once applied.

Foundation
I pat my beauty blender all over my face to make sure I’m working with a flat surface. Next, I go in with an anti-oil foundation, medium to full coverage depending on the occasion. I start with a small amount, patting it in with the beauty blender again. Once I’ve done that I work on my eyebrows and eyeshadow, before going over any areas that need a little more coverage with more foundation. The reason I don’t go in with a second layer immediately is because it gives the foundation a little time to settle into the skin, and it makes areas that need more coverage more apparent. Avoid dewy formulas because as I mentioned, if you have acne prone skin it’s probably oily too, and dewy will just make you look extra extra EXTRA greasy which is the opposite of what we’re trying to achieve.

Set It!
I have never stepped out my house without setting my foundation with a powder. When you have oily skin, it can make the world of difference at making your foundation stay on for longer.  The reason it’s key to set with a powder is because making the skin matte makes it appear flat and smooth, and this gives the illusion of airbrushed skin rather than bumps and acne. Sometimes, I use a powdered foundation to give me an extra layer of coverage, but I only generally do this when my skin is extra broken out. Usually, I use a loose translucent powder all over my face on a fluffy powder brush to set the foundation. I use a hell of a lot, and it can sometimes look a bit chalky and dry (that’s where the next step comes in). Alternatively, you can go in with a small eyeshadow brush and press some powder foundation over spots that need extra coverage, rather than the whole face. I emphasise the word ‘press’ rather than rub, because this will move around work you’ve done underneath.

Setting Spray
I use an oil free, temperature control setting spray after I have powdered my face to make sure the work I’ve put into my makeup isn’t broken down by oils as quickly throughout the day, and to remove the dry look that setting your face can give. After this, I highlight once the spray has dried, but I would opt for no highlight if I have spots around my cheekbones because putting shimmer over them will make them more prominent.

Other Tips
-          Carry blotting sheets throughout the day. Sometimes I feel my face getting extra oily but I’m not able to go and touch up with some powder. Keeping some blotting sheets in my pocket can help me stay oil-free until I get an opportunity to retouch, keeping my makeup looking fresh and matte.
-          I recommend using a beauty blender not a brush to apply foundation. Using a brush can irritate acne by rubbing, and micro exfoliate the skin causing skin flakes to pop up in your foundation, which isn’t a cute look!
-          Avoid touching your face. Touching can spread bacteria and cause more acne as I’m sure most people know, and it can also rub off your foundation leaving you looking streaky.





I hope everyone enjoyed this post! If you are interested in some of the specific products I use, I have a link to my favourites here. I also am open to any questions, or check out my Instagram @MyleeneBlogs for product updates.
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